When calculating the value of sports cards, there are three prominent grading companies: Beckett Grading Services (BGS), PSA, and SGC. For modern cards, BGS is preferred, and for vintage cards, PSA.
The Beckett grading system grades their cards on a scale of 1-10 with sub-grades in the halves. As for PSA, they grade on a flat 1-10 scale. SGC does it a bit differently, grading on a scale of out of 100, which they then use that grade to give the card a grade of 1-10.
Modern and vintage cards are treated equally when evaluated and graded. So even though a card might be 100 years old, it will still be held to the same factors as a card that is manufactured today.
Cards are graded on factors of centering, corners, edges, surface, and autographs. Each attribute is given a grade of 1 to 10. Once all factors are graded, they combine them for a final grade.
Grading
Any grade above a 9 is worth book value or greater; a BGS 9 is known as a Mint. These are also considered a PSA 9 or SGC 96. Mint is the best condition a card can be in and can sell for a high price. See the list below for all grades.
– Near Mint to Mint (NM/MT) PSA 8 or SGC 88
– Near Mint (NM) PSA 7 or SGC 84
– Excellent to Mint (EX/MT) PSA of SGC 80
– Excellent (EX) PSA 5 of SGC 60
– Very Good to Excellent (VG/EX) PSA 4 of SGC 50
– Very Good (VG) PSA 3 of SGC 40
– Good (GD) PSA 2 or SGC 30
– Poor (PR) PSA 1 or SGC 10
Putting Condition Into Context
Returning to the five attributes above, let’s discuss them and how they affect the grading of a sports card.
Centering
This attribute concerns the width of the border. Essentially, the border sizing should be equal on all sides, and the card should look balanced. If a card is crooked, then the centering is off.
Corners
Considered one of the most important and scrutinized attributes in grading, corners should be sharp, especially for older cards. Corners must be sharp on both sides, front and back. Slight corner imperfections or barely visible could be the difference between a 9 and 9.5.
Edges
The four edges of a sports card are essential, especially on cards with dark or black corners. To note, some brands are notorious for having terrible edges. Edges are viewed from the front and back. Edges are to be sharp and have a consistent color. Like corners, edges that have dings or have very slight imperfections aren’t a huge concern.
Surface
Surface refers to the condition of the cardboard as a whole. With glossy cards, scratches on the surface are a concern. Faded autographs or foil coming off are other issues that can affect grading. Older cards face the concern of creases or moisture getting to the card. From the 1980s, many cards suffered from their ink smearing and stamp marks from the print press.
Autographs
Autograph grading is strictly for the autograph. It has nothing to do with the sports card grade. As long as the ink isn’t smeared or the autograph isn’t faded, the grade will generally be a 10.
Other things to consider about a card’s condition are its brand, and the year it was printed. The brand confuses many people, leaving them thinking that a particular brand will garner a high grade. To understand this better, consider opening a pack of cards and imagine how they would hold up over time.
When it comes to the year, it is important to know that the older cards will grade lower than newer ones. This in no way means older cards are worthless; it just means that less is expected from them. The key is to find sports cards that have been taken care of and are in better condition than average for their age.
When looking at cards, use the above attributes to evaluate and grade yourself. When you can’t see a card in person, ask the seller questions that reference the attributes, as this is how they assess their cards for sale. We hope the above information about sports card conditions helps you make your next sports card trade, purchase, or sell a homerun.
